Deck Materials Compared (2026)

On a 320 sq ft deck, the material choice alone swings the project by roughly $7,000. But the cheapest deck to build is rarely the cheapest deck to own.

Pressure-treated wood: cheapest up front

The value play, and the most DIY-friendly. Downsides: annual cleaning, staining every 2–3 years ($800–$1,500 each time on a mid-size deck), plus eventual board replacement for warping, splitting, and splinters. Realistic life is 15–25 years with faithful upkeep — less if maintenance slips. Best for tight budgets, short-term ownership, or if you genuinely enjoy maintaining wood.

Composite: the long-term sweet spot

Trex, TimberTech, and Fiberon boards cost ~2x wood installed but eliminate staining forever and last 25–30+ years. Modern capped composites look convincingly like wood. Caveats: dark colors get hot in direct sun, boards need tighter joist spacing (more framing cost), and low-end uncapped composite can stain and fade. Buy capped boards from the top three brands and check the warranty terms.

PVC: maximum longevity, maximum price

Cellular PVC (AZEK-type) is impervious to moisture — the pick for poolside decks, heavy shade, and coastal air. Best color retention of the three. Downsides: highest upfront cost, can feel plasticky underfoot, and expands/contracts more with temperature swings, so installation details matter.

The 20-year math

320 sq ft deck. Pressure-treated at $22/sq ft = $7,040, plus seven stain jobs at ~$1,000 = ~$14,000 over 20 years. Mid-range composite at $35/sq ft = $11,200 with minimal upkeep = ~$12,000 over 20 years. Composite wins on total cost if you stay 10+ years — wood wins if you sell in five.

Don't forget the structure

Whatever you walk on, the frame underneath is pressure-treated lumber either way — and footings, framing, and labor are more than half the project cost. The boards are the visible third, not the whole budget.

Price your deck with the calculator

Also see: what drives fence & deck labor costs.